Skip to main content

Kitchen and laundry design

We've met with two kitchen companies this week, and as a result, we have some serious doubts about our budget. It is clear that we don't have enough money to fit out the kitchen, pantry, laundry and perhaps the walk-in-robe like we wanted.

We are planning for different appliances, including a larger fridge, new oven, new rangehood and our existing gas cooktop and microwave. We won't be buying them all soon, but instead over time. However, we need to ensure that the space we allow in the new cabinets is large enough - and for items like the fridge which aren't standard, that is a little tricky. We've reviewed catalogues with dimensions, and checked forums to get ideas.

An example of the problem is also our recently purchased washing machine. Its extra depth means that when opened, its lid is quite tall. In our now removed laundry, and in our current rental house, it didn't/doesn't fully open under the cabinets and wall mounted dryer that we have in each place. In our renovated laundry, we'll need to have the dryer mounted to one side, and no overhead cabinets that need regular access because they'll need to be mounted higher than normal.

Back in the kitchen, we have our walk-in-pantry. It was planned to have a work bench for appliances that don't need to be in the main kitchen, and as you'd expect, plenty of cupboards and drawers. We're now reconsidering the drawers, and it will certainly have a cheaper bench top. We're also thinking about the pro's and con's of 'soft close' drawers in the pantry and kitchen, with one argument being that their higher load rating and manufacturer's warranty are worthwhile. But for $60 per drawer...? Can standard drawer runners come with a higher load rating for less than $60 per drawer?


Popular posts from this blog

Walk-in pantry: advice for designing yours

Now we've been in our renovated home for a week, we've picked up on some minor issues that anyone considering a walk-in pantry or butlers pantry may want to consider. I think we got ours right, and the minor issues are ones we'll correct ourselves, shortly, at low cost.

 Our pantry is exactly that on most days - a pantry. There's no sink, no oven or hot plates, and no exhaust fan. It does have a microwave and a milkshake maker, storage for irregularly used appliances, and a bench top that can be worked on. We could fit plumbing for a sink later, but can't see a need right now.

Big cost savings can be made with a walk-in pantry. By having a separate room and door, there's absolutely no need for cupboards and cabinet doors within the pantry. Think of the pantry as a cupboard!  Bench tops can be practical and not showy - you don't need Corian or Caeserstone surfaces. A walk-in pantry is a separate room, so soft-close drawers to keep noise down aren't …

How to install a new garden tap for your vegetable garden

The day before the turf for our lawn was laid, I used a trenching shovel to quickly dig a trench from our existing tap on the back wall of the house, to the edge of our raised vegetable patches.

I laid a length of 25mm blue line PE pipe ("poly-pipe") and back filled the trench. I fitted a right angle elbow fitting to either end, with a short length sticking in the air, clear of the soil, so the line wouldn't become blocked.

During summer, our gardening efforts were focused on establishing the new lawn, so we didn't plant any vegetables.  Then last weekend, about six months after we laid the lawn, I completed the garden tap after speaking to a plumber about my options for connecting the pipe to the water supply.

In the end I took the easy and cheaper DIY option. At Bunnings I bought the tap fittings for the garden end, and quickly screwed it together.  A star dropper and some cable ties provide temporary support until I put in place a more substantial post.

The other …

Monkey bars!

A few months back we picked up a discounted set of monkey bars (aka horizontal ladders) from Bunnings.  They were reduced from $299 to $80 because the packaging was damaged and the bolts for attaching the bars to wooden posts were missing. There were about four sets of bars on sale.

Last weekend I started assembling them myself, using about an extra $175 worth of materials (bolts, washers, nuts, four cypress pine posts, quick set concrete).  When it came to erecting them I needed a helping hand, which I received yesterday.

In the process of working out how and where to assemble them I found that the recommended height is 1.8 - 2.0 metres, and preferably 1.8m.  Soft fall is also important, to a depth of 250-300mm for up to 2.5m around the bars (Playground Equipment Safety Bulletin, February 2011). The Bulletin provides advice about selecting soft fall materials.

We've generally followed this advice, although without soft fall for a little while. The Bulletin identifies the following…