Skip to main content

Standing on the first floor

This morning we dropped by the site again, and had an impromptu site meeting.

We agreed that the splashback for the kitchen sink will be 100mm of tile, plus 69mm of architrave.  The final height will depend on the height of the benches, which will vary between manufacturers.

Matt also took me through the problem with the plans and the position of a first floor wall.  The bedroom will be 300mm bigger, but the 'retreat' space will be 300mm smaller.  I'm not worried about that.

While there I identified another issue.  Because the ducted evaporative air and heating isn't shown on the plans, there's no allowance for the ducting to run through the structure of the floor, or the walls.  After bouncing some ideas around, Matt has identified some ways of achieving it using the new (not yet built) verandah roof and the false ceiling in the walk-in pantry that should enable us to get around the problem.  Matt recommended that I check out Duo Duct Fittings to see if I can quickly source some replacement ducting and vents to enable the air-conditioning and heating to be put through to the extension.

Rain set in during the early afternoon, delaying the start of the first floor wall frames.  It was good to stand on the first floor this morning and see the walls marked out, as well as to look at the view.  I hadn't expected to see the Dandenongs from our new bedroom window.

Comments

  1. Dave,

    Don't you love how builders like to take you through the problems with plans after the start building - You would think it better to sort out beforehand!

    Fix this problem and you will be the renovation superhero!

    ReplyDelete
  2. I think we have this problem solved - with the lined verandah, we have a continuous roof space that will permit us to run the ducting to where we need it. Similar with the aircon, although it is more constrained; however I hope that a wall mounted vent will solve the problem. I find out tomorrow.

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Walk-in pantry: advice for designing yours

Now we've been in our renovated home for a week, we've picked up on some minor issues that anyone considering a walk-in pantry or butlers pantry may want to consider. I think we got ours right, and the minor issues are ones we'll correct ourselves, shortly, at low cost.

 Our pantry is exactly that on most days - a pantry. There's no sink, no oven or hot plates, and no exhaust fan. It does have a microwave and a milkshake maker, storage for irregularly used appliances, and a bench top that can be worked on. We could fit plumbing for a sink later, but can't see a need right now.

Big cost savings can be made with a walk-in pantry. By having a separate room and door, there's absolutely no need for cupboards and cabinet doors within the pantry. Think of the pantry as a cupboard!  Bench tops can be practical and not showy - you don't need Corian or Caeserstone surfaces. A walk-in pantry is a separate room, so soft-close drawers to keep noise down aren't …

Review: Bag2Bed - the comfiest bean bag there is?

About a month ago, at the Better Homes and Gardens show in Melbourne, we impulsively splashed out on not one, but three, bean bags.  And not just any - three super large ones from Bag2Bed. As our daughter noted, we now have six bean bags, with three being small children sized ones and three large ones, for a family of four.

At the show, we took two conventional large outdoor beanbags immediately and placed an order for the third - the Queen Size Bag2Bed. Within two weeks we received a call and made arrangements to collect the bag from their factory, which is conveniently close to us in Cheltenham, Melbourne.

The Bag2Bed concept is that instead of a bean bag filled with polystyrene balls, the Bag2Bed is filled with a foam mattress rolled into a ball.  The bean bag cover can be easily slipped off, and the filling unfurls into a mattress.  In our case it is a queen size mattress.

It is easily the most comfortable bean bag we've used, with a firm foam filling.  We 'fight' for …

Monkey bars!

A few months back we picked up a discounted set of monkey bars (aka horizontal ladders) from Bunnings.  They were reduced from $299 to $80 because the packaging was damaged and the bolts for attaching the bars to wooden posts were missing. There were about four sets of bars on sale.

Last weekend I started assembling them myself, using about an extra $175 worth of materials (bolts, washers, nuts, four cypress pine posts, quick set concrete).  When it came to erecting them I needed a helping hand, which I received yesterday.

In the process of working out how and where to assemble them I found that the recommended height is 1.8 - 2.0 metres, and preferably 1.8m.  Soft fall is also important, to a depth of 250-300mm for up to 2.5m around the bars (Playground Equipment Safety Bulletin, February 2011). The Bulletin provides advice about selecting soft fall materials.

We've generally followed this advice, although without soft fall for a little while. The Bulletin identifies the following…